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I had watched it break several times, including a couple of frightening days when only Mark, Peewee, Tim Bodkin, and a scatter of other certified big-wave riders paddled out, and Id actually surfed it a few times on marginal days, when it wasnt breaking with much authoritybefore I ever had to face the question of paddling out myself on a big, serious day

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Faroon O, Roney N, Taylor J, Ashizawa A, Lumpkin MH, Plewak DJ

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